Penguin Blog

Pettisville STEM Club RepRap Handout

Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:46:37 GMT

I am giving a presentation to the STEM club at Pettisville Schools about my RepRap 3D Printers. I came up with some links to share with the members and thought I would throw it up here as well.

OctoPrint - http://octoprint.org/ Run your printer with a Raspberry Pi

MatterControl - http://www.mattercontrol.com/

Firmware

Marlin - http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin

Repetier - http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/

My Contact Info

Lynn’s Website: http://penguin.nu/

Twitter: @lynnroth

Lynn’s Things:

https://github.com/lynnroth/things

https://www.youmagine.com/users/lynnroth

Keychain: https://github.com/lynnroth/things/tree/master/favors/keychain_with_words

Prusa i3 Single Sheet Laser Cut Build Log

Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:28:00 GMT

This post will grow as I continue the build of my Prusa i3 3D Printer.

I'm currently working on getting things wired up.

Power supply

Power supply: 12V 30A

Power Cable

Wire an AC cord to the L (line), N (neutral) and ground.

Plug in the supply and test the 12V output.

Frame

Prusa i3 LC w/ Side Supports

6 M3x25mm Machine Screws

12 M3 Flat Washers

6 M3 Nylon Lock Nuts

Slide the tabs of the side supports into the main frame. Attach with screws and nuts. I used a washer on each side as well and used nylon lock nuts This step takes 6 M3x25mm screws, 6 M3 Nyloc nuts and 12 M3 washers. This step took a little while due to the small space available to hold the lock nuts. I ended up using regular hex nuts for the middle sets. The frame ends up being very solid.

Rod – Smooth and Threaded.

I got the rod and cut it to length. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel that I borrowed from my dad. It cut through even the hardened smooth rod fairly easily. I used a clamp hanging from the ceiling to hold the pieces that were being cut so they didn't bounce off the concrete floor.

Y-Axis

The Y-axis consists of 6 threaded rod and 2 smooth rod, along with the printed parts.

I used rod lengths as follows:

Threaded

3 – 215 mm x 8mm – front and back (bottom)

1 – 310 mm x 8mm – back (top)

2 – 435 mm x 8mm – sides

Smooth

2 – 405 mm x 8mm hardened

The rod lengths here are a bit bigger than the "normal" size.

Construction

Take one short (215mm) threaded rod and put the y idler on it and thread washers and nuts to both sides of it.
Next, thread two nuts and washers on far enough that the plastic pieces will fit on with room for a washer and nyloc nut. The plastic pieces will hold the smooth rod, so they should be the same distance apart at the linear bearings on the y carriage. I am just hand tightening things at this point to make adjustment easier when we put things together.
Thread two nuts and washers onto another piece of (215 mm) threaded rod and add to the assembly. Add washers and nyloc nuts to the ends of all the shafts.
Now for the back section. Take a 215 mm threaded rod and a 310 mm threaded rod and thread a washer and nut about halfway or so (this will be adjusted later). Slide the Y-motor holder up to that and thread a washer and nut on the other side (both top and bottom. Thread nuts and washers for the inside of the plastic pieces, put the plastic pieces on and thread washers and nuts (nyloc on the bottom) on both ends of both rods.. Thread a nut and two washers and a nyloc nut on each end of the top (long) piece for attachment to the frame.
Connect the front and back pieces with the 425 mm threaded rod, one on each side. Thread two nuts and two washers (between the nuts) onto the threads for connecting to the frame. Use washers and nuts on the inside and washers and nyloc nuts on the outside of each plastic corner piece. Lay the smooth rod in place to get the dimensions set and begin to tighten down the corners. Once everything is tight, check the frame for square.

Y-Carriage

Assemble the Y-Carriage by using M3 Machine screws, washers and nuts to attach the bearing holders and the belt holder to the laser cut carriage. Don't tighten completely to allow some give when you put the rod through. Mount the bearings into the bearing holders.

Slide the smooth rod through the bearings and mount to the Y Corners. It takes a bit of pressure to get them to seat fully. Then zip tie the rods in place. Then tighten the Y-Carriage bearing holder fasteners. You can also mount the Y stepper at this point.

Assemble the X Axis

Part	Quantity
Small zip tie	6
LM8UU Linear Bearing	7
M3 X 25mm Screw	1
M3 Nyloc nut	1
M3 nut	2
M3 x 40mm Screw	2
M3 Washer	3

Place the LM8UU bearings in the X-Carriage and use zip ties to fasten them.
Insert the M5 Nuts into the X-Motor Mount and X-Idler I heated the nuts over a small flame and then stuck them in with a pliers. Make sure they fit well and are square with everything. You will also want to make sure the M5 threaded rod easily runs through the assembly. I had to ream the hole out slightly.
Place the smooth rod into the X-Idler. Mine went in quite tightly and I used a hammer to drive them in. I should have reamed out the holes a bit so that they wouldn't be so tight. Put the 623 Bearing inside the belt guide plastic pieces and screw into the X-idler end. Fasten with M3x25, washer and nyloc.

Now Build Add the Extruder Adapter to the X-Carriage Place two M3 nuts in the nut holders in the adapter. Make sure you can screw the M3 bolts into them. Then remove the screws.
Screw the M3x40 Screws through the X-Carriage with M3 washers. Mine were a fairly tight fit so I just screwed them through.
Attach the Adapter as shown and tighten the screws.
Slide the X-Carriage Assembly onto the smooth rods.
Slide the X-Motor Mount onto the smooth rod. Adjust this to the width of the Z smooth rod (mine is 369mm outside to outside of the smooth rod)

Assemble the Z Axis

Part	Quantity
M3 X 20mm Screw	10
M3 Nyloc nut	10
M3 x 10mm Screw	9
M3 Washer	10
.17" ID tubing - ~25-30 mm	2

Mount the top Z brackets and slide the rod through. (M3x20, washer and nyloc in each hole) I had to ream the rod holes to make sure they were tight but not making the bracket bend.
Attach the bottom Z brackets (M3x20, washer and nyloc in each hole) Slide the X axis on to the Z rods and slide the rods into the bottom brackets.
Attach the Z motors with M3x10 screws
Thread the M5 rod through the X ends and down to the motor. Slide the tubing over the motor shaft and the threaded rod
Mount the X motor with 3 M3x10mm screws

Extruder

Part	Quantity
8mm Hobbed Bolt	1
8mm washer	5 – depends on the hobbed bolt
M4x60mm screws	2
M4 nut	2
M4 Washer	4
Spring	2
20mm Smooth Rod	1
608 Bearing	3
M3 Nut	2
M3x10 Screw	4

Put the 20mm smooth rod through one of the 608 bearings. Mine was pretty tight and I used a hammer/punch to get it into place. Snap that into the idler plastic part. Make sure it snaps in all the way and the bearing turns smoothly.
Slide a M3 nut into the nut holder on the small gear. Drive a screw into the nut.
Attach the small gear to the motor Mount the motor with 3 M3x10mm screws. Do not tighten completely at this point.
Mount two 608 bearings into each side of the body.
Now you need to <<put the bolt through the gear, spacing washers, bearings>> See: http://reprapkit.com/wiki/index.php?title=Building_the_extruder
Screw a M3x25mm screw to act as a hinge for the idler.
Drop the M4 nuts into the nut traps at the top. Slide a washer, spring and washer on the M4 screws. Attach through the idler into the nuts.
Attach through the idler into the nuts.

Mount Y to Z

You are now ready to mount the Y-axis to the Z Axis. Line things up and tighten everything in place.

RepRap

Sat, 26 Jan 2013 18:33:00 GMT

I have started down the journey of building a reprap based off of the Prusa i3, with the frame from Prusa3_LC by sgraber.

I have received the threaded and smooth rod and hopefully most of the hardware. Shane is dropping by today to drop off the frame and some of the printed parts. The motors are on their way from China and the power supply should be here early next week.

Still to order are the bearings, hot end and extruder hardware (if I can't get it around here)

I'm looking forward to this project.

Replacing the Zoom Rocker on a Canon GL2 Camcorder

Sat, 26 Jan 2013 17:47:00 GMT

The GL2 has a problem where the zoom rocker becomes "sticky" or unresponsive. You can order the part from Canon and install it yourself.

When my zoom rocker started getting bad, I started researching and found that you can send it to Canon and they will fix it for about $250, but you can also order the part for about $20 including shipping and install it yourself. The number for the parts department is 1-732-521-7230. The part number you need is DG1-7395-010. The part costs $13.08 (as of early 2007) and with shipping and tax, my total was $19.93. Hopefully the following will be able to help someone save some money and have fun taking your camcorder apart..

Remove the two screws from the tape door.

Remove the three screws from the back left side.

Remove the 6 screws from the bottom.

Remove two screws that were under the bottom plate.

Remove the tape door cover and remove the 1 screw from the mic/headphone jack area and the screw from the zoom rocker assembly.

Remove the screw from the rear of the tape door opening.

Gently remove the right side of the camera. I set it on a stack of folders to hold it up.

Gently peal the zoom cable away from the metal area and remove it from the connector.

I found it easier to insert the cable into the connector by taking the metal assembly out. Remove 5 screws from metal door assembly.

Slide the plastic and metal pieces apart. You may have to slide the tape door release.

Connect the zoom cable. I used a tweezers to slide it in. It slid in easier than I expected.

Remove the adhesive protector from the cable and stick the cable to the metal assembly. Then slide the zoom key assembly into place and insert the screw.

Put everything back together...when you are reassembling the outer door, make sure to line up the plastic tabs.

Place the side assembly back on the camera body. Don’t forget to put the rear port cover back in place.

This project took me approximately an hour and a half, including taking the pictures.

Penguin Blog

Pettisville STEM Club RepRap Handout

RepRap

3D Printing News

Websites with downloadable things:

Things

CAD

Slicers

Hosts

Firmware

My Contact Info

Prusa i3 Single Sheet Laser Cut Build Log

Power supply

Frame

Rod – Smooth and Threaded.

Y-Axis

Threaded

Smooth

Construction

Y-Carriage

Assemble the X Axis

Assemble the Z Axis

Extruder

Mount Y to Z

RepRap

Replacing the Zoom Rocker on a Canon GL2 Camcorder